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Back From the "Crossing" of Scotland Part 1 PDF Print E-mail
Written by Ray Cassidy   
Tuesday, 07 April 2009

I thought I ought to put finger to keyboard to let my kind sponsors know how the Scottish paddling trip went.   I can't believe another month and a half has gone by without getting this written.

Well we had a good go!  Having set off a day late because of Rob's other commitments, we arrived at Ballinluig to drop a car off at what we hoped would be a staging post on the way to Perth.   From Ballinluig on the confluence of Tummel and Tay, we then had to drag all the gear in Rob's van, across to Bridge of Orchy for the night, to be in position for the next morning's logistical juggling.


After all the rushing around, I set up the tent while Rob slumped back into his seat saying that his daughter had been violently ill the day or so before, while they travelled back home from their  tour down the River Spey.   Rob went quieter and quieter, with just the occasional belch giving notice of the rising storm.

I feasted on a huge chicken curry while Rob groaned.  The rain started, which would have been a good thing, if only it had been decently heavy.  After a long natter, we crashed in the tent.  I was out for the count very quickly and was only vaguely aware of Rob stirring.  However after a few hours kip, even my frazzled brain was awoken by the unmistakeable sounds of someone firing at both ends.  Rob had gone down with the same bug as his daughter.

I had a vague notion that the "Cross Scotland" trip was over before it had even started, but I was only dimly conscious and soon drifted back to sleep.   Next morning Rob was pretty wrung out and the rain continued its drizzling.  A half hearted war conference was held and  we decided to wait for a brightening in the weather - and Rob's constitution.  He's a plucky character is Rob and a good old dose of "The Wildies" wasn't putting him off the possibility of his trip.

It took a couple of hours, but eventually my mate started to show distinct signs of life.  It was game on!

It was necessary to shuttle 2 open boats, 2 barrels of food, canoeing and camping gear, 2 bags of assorted clothing, a day bag each and a weird looking collection of aluminium poles to the roadside on the A85, beside Loch Ba.  This is a place well known to travelling photographers, with stunning views across Rannoch Moor and the Black Mount.  Once unloaded, Rob drove his van back to Bridge of Orchy in the hope of finding safe parking for the next several days.  I then had the joy of ferrying the assorted pile of kit to the water's edge, while Rob hitched back up.  Soon the task was complete and Rob rolled back after a surprisingly painless hitch back up the road.

Starting at Loch Ba

The first lesson for this novice open boater then commenced.  The black art of packing an open canoe for the "Big Trip".  This went fairly painlessly and we were soon ready to cast off into the wilderness.  By now the mornings' rain clouds had cleared out to give an absolutely stunning afternoon.  The moorland was showing its most varied shades of spring green and the Blackmount behind us was highlighted by remnants of the winter snows.

As we made our way across Loch Ba, it was pretty instantly obvious that it was a team of one pro and one novice.  I was left trailing in Rob's wake as he effortlessly glided across the azure surface of the lake.  By contrast, my erratic zigs and zags must have been excellent fat burning exercise.  It didn't really matter though, because after so many years of being too far inside my comfort zone, I knew I was going to have to learn - or burn even more flab.

After probably less than an hour we found the exit from the Loch into the R. Ba.  Clearly the overnight rain had made little impression on an unusual Scottish drought.  To call the river boney would not be doing it justice.  It was a bit like the legend of the "pub with no beer": this was the river with no water!  Between the occasional pools, each rapid was a rocky toothed, body and boat breaking obstacle course.  This is how Ranulph Fiennes should train for his polar sledging epics.  We dragged and shoved; cajoled and cursed; grunted and giggled at the sheer daftness of our little holiday as we slowly crept down the couple of kilometres of river towards Loch Laidon. 

A bony R.Ba with Loch Laidon creeping closer

 Eventually the lake  came into view and painfully (after several slippery rock induced dead legs) we got clear of the rocky river bed and pulled round a corner onto the lake shore for a quick breather and decision making.  It was early evening now and we weren't at all sure we would get along Loch Laidon before it got dark, reckoning it to be something like a 3 or 4 hour paddle (longer with me I think).  However there was a reasonable breeze blowing in roughly the right direction so we went for broke and decided to get some miles in by sailing.

This was the start of my introductory; rafted canoe sailing 101 course.  A collection of ropes and poles and a hefty lump of timber were dragged from the bags  and boat bottoms and quickly assembled into an A frame masted catamaran.  We cast off and after a couple of false starts, we finally picked up the best stream of breeze possible and at last we were flying!

We absolutely creamed our way up the lake; with the biggest tarp acting as a Viking style square sail and paddles jammed into the water at odd angles acting as rudders and lee boards.  Our canoe sailing contraption was shifting as fast as a sophisticated sailing dinghy.  Within an hour and a half, we were bearing down on the end of the Loch and right by the opening of the R. Gaur was a beautiful curving sandy beach with a sheltered cove behind it, perfect for tents and sheltering us from the oh so helpful wind.  Mind you it was a bit sobering to think that in the 5 hours we had been going we had only made 14km of the 134 we needed to cover if we were going to get to Perth by Friday evening.

Our first camp at the end of Loch Laidon 

We quickly set up camp and after a large belly full of nosh for me and a couple of tentative mouthfuls for Rob, I finally got that early night I had been promising myself for the last 18 months.

Look out for the next instalment ...

 

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